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How Much Backup Power Do You Actually Need?

A step-by-step sizing guide for power stations, home batteries, and generators.

Published October 20, 2026 · 8 min read · Power

Most people shop for backup power by picking a big number — a 2,000 Wh power station, a 7,500 W generator — and hoping it's enough. It's cheaper and far more reliable to do the math first. The good news: it takes one formula and a short list.

The only formula you need

Watts (W) measure how fast something uses power. Watt-hours (Wh) measure how much energy a battery holds, or how much a device uses over time. The link between them:

Watts × Hours = Watt-hours

A 10 W LED bulb running for 5 hours uses 50 Wh. A 2,000 Wh battery can supply 400 W for about 5 hours (2,000 ÷ 400).

Step 1: List what you actually need to run

Not what you'd like to run — what you must. For most households in a multi-day outage that means the refrigerator, a few lights, phone and laptop charging, internet, and possibly a medical device, sump pump, or well pump. Typical running loads are below. They're approximate, so check the label on your own equipment.

DeviceTypical running wattsNotes
LED light bulb8–10 WCheap to run; use these
Wi-Fi router + modem15–30 WRuns 24/7, so it adds up
Phone charging5–20 W
Laptop45–90 W
Efficient refrigerator100–200 W while runningCycles on and off; roughly 1–2 kWh per day
Sump pump400–1,000 WLarge startup surge
Well pump750–1,500 WLarge startup surge
Microwave1,000–1,500 WShort bursts
Window air conditioner500–1,500 WBudget killer
Space heater1,500 WBudget killer

Step 2: Check surge (startup) watts

Anything with a motor — a refrigerator compressor, a pump, an air conditioner — pulls several times its running wattage for a split second when it starts, commonly two to three times or more. A power station or generator has two ratings: continuous (what it can sustain) and surge (what it can handle briefly). Both need to cover your biggest motor load. A refrigerator that runs at 150 W may need 600 W or more to start.

Step 3: Add up your daily energy use

Here's a worked example for a minimal "keep the food cold and stay connected" setup:

LoadCalculationEnergy per day
RefrigeratorTypical efficient model~1,500 Wh
Router + modem20 W × 24 h480 Wh
LED lights40 W total × 5 h200 Wh
Phones + laptopEstimate~300 Wh
Total≈ 2,480 Wh

Add about 20% for inverter losses and real-world inefficiency: 2,480 × 1.2 ≈ 3,000 Wh per day.

Step 4: Match it to a battery

A 2,000 Wh station would run that whole list for roughly 16 hours, or run just the refrigerator (about 1,800 Wh/day with the same 20% cushion) for around a day. A bigger battery buys more hours — but a battery by itself only delays the problem, which is why recharging matters.

Step 5: Plan the recharge

A battery buys time; solar or a generator buys days. Rough solar math:

Panel watts × peak sun hours × 0.75 ≈ daily Wh

400 W of panels × 4 peak sun hours × 0.75 ≈ 1,200 Wh per day. Peak sun hours vary with location and season; in winter at northern latitudes they can fall to 2–3 or lower. In our example, 400 W of solar covers only about 40% of the 3,000 Wh daily need. You'd either cut loads, add panels, or pair the battery with a generator.

Heat and cooling will break your budget. Electric space heaters, window air conditioners, electric ranges, and dryers can each draw 1,500 W or more continuously. A space heater alone for 8 hours is 12,000 Wh — four times the entire example day above. Plan around gas heat, a wood stove, fans, and insulation instead of trying to run them off a battery.

Portable station, whole-home battery, or generator?

Safety first.

Ready to shop? See power stations, solar, and whole-home battery options on our Power page.

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